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Thinking of taking up model aircraft flying as a hobby?

The first issue to consider is cost.

Shop around and you can find model shops offering package deals, with all you need to get airborne, for about £350 and realistically this is a fairly good price. Alternatively take a look on e-bay (Search toys & games - Radio controlled) - as you can sometimes get some fairly good deals from people that didn't stick with the hobby – but try and get an experienced modeller to take a look at anything you might want to bid for before you buy, to check its suitable.

Oh, by the way if you join our club to learn and have somewhere to fly, fees are £71 per year including third party liability insurance from the British Model Flying Association (BMFA) plus a one off joining fee of £50 for adult membership - see the Membership page for Junior and Senior rates.

If you're still with me and the cost is within your budget, the next decision is which model?

We sometimes get people approaching us that fly full size aircraft thinking that a model would be similar to full size. Flying a model aircraft is quite a bit different to flying a full size aircraft. For a start you’re not sitting 'behind the wheel' so as to speak, so while the aircraft is flying away from you, all is straight forward, left is left and up is up. However when it’s flying toward you or inverted your perspective has changed and to make the model turn to your left you have to make a right hand control inputs because of which way the model is travelling - this takes a little getting used too. Also controlling the model through two little sticks on the transmitter takes some practice. Having a PPL, would at least show an understanding of the principles of flight and what the different control surfaces do so this would help.

An ideal first model would be a high wing aircraft with some dihedral (wings are set in a shallow 'V' shape not flat) this gives the model inherent stability while the trainee pilot gets to grips with controlling it. Most models described as ‘trainer’ would be suitable, although many of the people at our club start off with the 'Ready 2' made by ARC. http://www.hobbystores.co.uk/2005/FS_Aircraft.asp (Click aircraft and look for the Ready 2) it’s easy to put together, and very tough.

Aim to get something in the '40' size, this refers to the engine size - 0.40 cubic inches, (about 7cc's) and has a wing span of about 60" which is a good compromise between size (larger models are usually more stable) and portability.

Most of these type of models are what's called ARTF (Almost Ready To Fly) meaning they are about 90% pre-built. Getting it ready to fly is usually limited to gluing the two halves of the pre-built, pre-covered wings together, gluing on the tail and fin, installing engine and radio, then,  away you go. This should take about a week or two of evenings. Trainers can be built from true kits, but the ARTF route allows you to ‘get flying’ faster and gain experience in modelling. Number two model can then be built in parallel from a kit if you enjoy building.

Radio

I would very strongly recommend joining a club to learn to fly, so I would suggest you see what the common manufacturer of radio control equipment in use at the club you intend to join is before you purchase any as there is a wide range for sale these days.

Most clubs, including Reading, operate what is called a 'buddy lead' system of training. This involves your instructor connecting their radio control transmitter to the trainee's transmitter via a 'buddy lead', so that control can be instantly switched between the two. 
Early lessons will usually consist of the instructor being in control for take off and level out, then passing control over to the trainee, with the instructor concluding the lesson by landing the model. Then, as skill grows, more and more can be left to the trainee. But, the safety net is always there in that the instructor can quickly and easily take back control if the trainee gets into difficulty - believe me this can save a fortune in crashed models!! 
At Reading club, we mostly operate Futaba radio gear, so sticking with this manufacturer would ensure compatibility, its also good quality equipment.

Engines

With regard to engines, my personal recommendation would be to stick with one of the well-known brands - O.S., Irvine, Super Tiger etc - there are some cheaper brands out there that aren't so reliable.

Other kit you will need

  • Fuel, the model shop where you purchase it can recommend which type
  • Fuel pump - something to get fuel into the model with - hand driven or electric pump
  • Starter & battery - battery operated motor to spin over the propeller and start the engine - this can be done by hand, but initially is safer with a starter
  • Most of the engines used for model aircraft require a battery to power a ‘glow plug’ to initially get them going, once the engine is running the battery is disconnected - so some form battery powered glow start and connector is required
  • A box to put it all in is useful

Once you have completed the model and think it’s ready to fly, it’s wise to allow another experienced modeller to check it over to make sure you haven’t missed something. They will check that the control surfaces move the right way and a sensible amount, receiver and battery pack are adequately protected and secured, fuel tank is securely fastened and correctly aligned, servos and control linkage are secure and suitable, centre of gravity is correct, and generally that everthing is safe etc – the simplest mistakes are often the easiest to make.

As a point of reference all model aircraft are governed by the Air Navigation Order, particularly article 64 http://www.bmfa.org/ANO/ano_list.html and Civil Aviation Authority document CAP 658 http://www.caa.co.uk/docs/33/CAP658.PDF both of these are worth reading.

Finally, two words of warning

  • Firstly radio controlled model aircraft are not toys. A 40 size model aircraft engine can spin an 11" diameter propeller in excess of 10,000 RPM and needs to be treated with respect. Reading club operate the BMFA certification system where by a pilot cannot fly un-supervised until they have passed their 'A' test (equivalent to a driving test) which will demonstrate a minimum level of competence as a pilot and show good safe practices handling the model (starting the engine and conduct around the pits etc). Reading club provide training free to members (Saturday's and Wednesday evenings during the summer - weather permitting). Alternatively there are several good flight schools where training can be paid for. e.g. Paul Heckles School of Flying
  • Secondly - this is a highly addictive hobby and can often turn into a life long and very rewarding pastime with many different specialist areas to progress into such as scale models, aerobatic models, float planes, gliding, a Sunday morning hack to fly around or all of them! You have been warned!

See the Membership page of this web site for details of where and when we meet and come down and see us. We will be happy to answer any questions you have regarding take up model aircraft flying as a hobby, and in the long run this can save you money in getting suitable equipment in the first place.

Finally, can I recommend you support our local model shop in Reading - Hobby stores on the Oxford Road, they are very helpful,  knowledgeable and will generally price match anything in the area.

If you have any other questions come down and see us or drop us an e-mail.

Fly Safe.

 

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